Sewing-machine



J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC-2. mm.

1,329,221. Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

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Wbbmzooeo J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION man DEC. 2. m4.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2- amen/tom Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

' J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATIQN FILED DEC.2. 1914.

1,329,221 Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2, 1914.

'1 ,329,221 Patented J an. 27, 192k 6 SHEETSSHEET 4- 5] 5g??? 6 a 9; E5-? 2 v 0 Z5 2 a W G H L-Z i 52 v 53 20 22 J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 0110.2, 19x4.

' 1,329,221, Patented Jan.27,1920.

GSHEETS-SHEET 5.

J. BERGER.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2. 1914.

Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

6 SHEETSSHEET 6- a g'zz. I

UNITED STATES, PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH BERGER, OF UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINECOMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 27, 1920.

Application filed December 2, 1914. Serial No. 875,109.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH BERGER, a citizen of the United States,residing at Utica, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, ofwhich the following is a description, reference being had to theaccompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines,and more particularly to the stitch forming mechanism and the threadlaying devices, whereby loops of thread are formed on the upper face ofthe material and stitched thereto by the needle threads.

An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the abovecharacter, wherein the loops laid on the upper face of the fabric areformed by a thread guiding member movable back and forth at one side ofspaced needles and in a direction substantially parallel to the line offeed, and a thread carrying hook or the like which engages the thread ofthe thread guiding member and forms the same into a loop which ispositioned for the entrance of one of the needles.

A further object of the invention is to provide a stitch formingmechanism of the above character, which may be used for uniting anedging to a body fabric, with a third needle set at some distance fromthe needles for joining the edging to the body fabric, whereby a liningor facing strip may be simultaneously stitched to said body fabric.

A further object of the invention isto provide an improved mechanism forsupporting and operating the thread carrying hook, whereby it may bepositively moved back and forth, and whereby the position of the samemay be readily adjusted or varied to facilitate the setting of the hookrelative to the needles.

A still further object of the invention is to provide means forsupporting the thread guiding member beneath the work support and forpositively oscillating the same back and forth in a directionsubstantially parallel with the line of feed.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part behereinafter more fully described.

In. the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of theinvention,

Figure 1 is a front view of a sewing machine embodying my improvements;

Fig. 2 is an end View of the same;

Fig. 3 is a view partly in plan and partly in section, taken on the line33 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of certain of the parts beneath the work support;

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view through a portion of the loopersupport and showing the means for supporting and operating the threadguiding member;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 66 of Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a view partly in plan and partly in section, showing more orless diagrammatically, the loopers, the connection therefor, the threadguiding member and the thread carrying hook and the operating member forsaid thread carrying hook;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7, showing the thread carrying hook atthe other end of its stroke.

Fig. 9 is a perspective view, showing the thread guiding member and thesupport therefor; V

Fig. 10 is a sectional view on the line 1010 of Fig. 7

Fig. 11 is a sectional view through the end of the carrier for thethread carrying hook, showing the manner of mounting the same therein;

Fig. 12 is a diagrammatic view, showing the position of the fabric, thefacing strip and edging relative to the needles, the loopers, the threadguide and the thread carrying hook;

Fig. 13 is a diagrammatic view, showing the thread guide at the forwardend of its stroke and the thread carrying hook at the rear end of itsstroke and the position of the needles relative thereto;

Fig. 14 is a similar view, showing the hook as moved forwardsufiiciently to engage the thread carried by the thread guiding member;

Fig. 15 is a similar view, showing the thread carrying hook at theforward end of its stroke and the loop formed for the entrance of theneedle on its next descent;

Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic view in side elevation showing the position ofthe needle, the thread guiding member and the thread ca rying 11 01; h nthe h ok is e gaging the thread carried by said thread guiding member;and

F ig.'17 is a plan view of the presser foot. My improved machine,asshown in the drawings, consists of a supporting bed 1 carrying a worksupport 2. ing arm 3 is mounted on said supporting bed and a need e bar4- is reciprocated in said overhanging arm by a needle lever 5, which 15operated by a link 6 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaftf.Said needle lever 5 is provided with the usual needle lever extension 8.Also mounted in the overhanging arm is a presser bar 9, carrying apresser foot 10. This presser bar may be lifted bya hand lever 11 or bya lever 12, which is adapted to be connected to a tread e in the wellknown manner.

At the lower end of the needle bar t there is a needle head 13, in whichare mounted three needles 11, 15 and 16. The needles 15 and 16 aregrouped together and cooperate 1n securing an edging to a body fabric.The

, body fabric is guided to the stitch forming mechanism by a suitableedge guide 17, which may be adjusted so that the edge of the body fabricwill pass between the me dies 15 and 16 so that the stitches formed bythe needle 15 are laid just over the edge of the body fabric and coverthe same. The needle 14 enters the body fabric we l back from the edgethereof. In Fig. 12 of the drawing, I have shown the body fabric insleeve is journa ed in the bearings 22 and 23. A. fork 24 engages thesleeve between said bearings and this fork cooperates with an eccentricon the main shaft 7. As the main shaft rotates the looper support 20will be given an oscillation and this oscillation provides the usualneedle avoiding movement for the looper. The loopers are moved into andout of their respective needle loops by a link 25, which cooperates withthe needle le er extension 8. The looper 18 cooperates with both of theneedles 15 and 16 and therefore the looper thread not only looks eachneedle oop of this pair of needles, but

.also forms connecting threads between the pairs of needle loops.

My improved machine is especially adapted for, joining an edging to abody fabric and also for stitching a facing strip to the underface ofsaid body fabric. In Fig. of the drawing, 1 have indicated the edging atE. and thefacingstrip at L. The edging An overhang is guided so that theneedle 16 passes through the edging, the edge of which may aline with orbe slightly overlapped by the body fabric. The lining or facing strip Lis entered at one edge by the needle 15 and at the other edge by theneedle l t. The looper thread beneath the work support, which isinterlocked with the needle loops of the needles 15 and 16, joins the stto the body fabric through the connecting threads passing from oneneedle loop to the other.

The edging is joined to the body fabric above the material by threadlaying devices which form loops which are entered by the needles 15 and16 and stitched to the body fabric and edging. The lining strip isguided underneath the work support by a guide 26. This guide deliversthe lining strip directly in front of the presser foot.

through aslot'in the work support. The edging is guided to the stitchingmechanism by a suitable guide 27, which also is located beneath the worksupport and delivers the edging through a slot directly in front of theprcsser foot, said guide for the facing strip being formed with a slot28, while the guide for the edging is for ned with a slot These slotsare for the purpose of facilitating the insertion of the facing stripand edging into their respective guides.

lvfy improved machine is also especially adapted for stitching anelastic body fabric 7 and joining a non-elastic facing strip there-Beneath the work support is a main to. feeding mechanism which includesa series of feed dogsBO, each of which is carried by a feed bar 31,which is moved back and forth by a feed rocker 32 in the usual manner inthis type of machine, and said feed bar is raised and lowered by aneccentric 33 carried by the main shaft 7. This main feeding mechanisicooperates with the underface of the presser foot and feeds the facingstrip and edging to the stitch forming mechanism and also the bodyfabric with the lining and edging stitches thereto away from the stitchforming mechanism. Cooperating with this feeding mechanism is anauxiliary feeding member 34, which is in the form of a gathering blade.The body fabric B passes over a separating plate 35 underneath which thefacing strip is guided V and this gathering blade 34 engages the bodyfabric as it rests on this separating plate and feeds the same forwardunderneath the presser foot. An elastic body fabric is liable to bestretched and to overcome this stretching of the body fabric thegathering blade 34 maybe given a slightly faster feeding movement thanthe main feeding mechanism, as is well known in this art. "Thisgathering blade is carried by a supporting bar 37., which is pivoted atits upper end to a. lever 38 and the lever 38 is connected.

.a to

by links 39' to an 'arm- 40 carried by a rock shaft 41 mounted insuitable bearings at the rear of the overhanging arm. This rock shaft 41is oscillated by a link 42, which cooperates with suitable devicesactuated by the main shaft beneath the work support. The links 39 carryan arm 48 which has a roller running in a slot 44 in a controlling plate45. This controlling plate is freely mounted on the rock shaft 41 and isconnected by a link 46 with an arm 47 mounted at the upper end of thepresser bar 9. The bar 37 passes through a sleeve 48, which is pivotedto an arm 49 fixed to the needle bar 4. As the needle bar moves up anddown the sleeve 48 is carried up and down on the bar 37. The pivotalconnection between the bar 37 and the lever 38 may be so disposed thatas the sleeve moves up and down on the bar 37 it will cause the bar tooscillate about its pivotal connection. The oscillation of the shaft 41,through the lever 38, will raise and lower the bar, the toggles beingheld in substantially fixed relation to each other by the slot 44 in thecontrolling plate 45. Through these devices, the gathering blade is notonly moved back and forth but is positively raised and lowered so as toengage the fabric and feed it forward and to move backward when out ofengagement with the fabric. lVhen the presser bar is lifted to raise thepresser foot from the fabric the controlling plate is swung through thelink 46. The cam slot 44 in this controlling plate is so shaped thatthis upward movement of the plate buckles the toggles which swings thelever 38 and raises the gathering blade from the fabric. Thisfacilitates the insertion of the fabric underneath the presser foot asthe gathering blade is raised by the mecha nism which lifts the presserfoot.

The gathering lade is preferably spring pressed against the fabric by asuitable spring 50 and the downward movement of the blade is limited bya suitable stop 51. This enables the blace to be raised from the fabricduring its return movement and during the lifting of the press-er footand leaves the blade free to be yieldingly pressed against the fabricduring its feeding action;

This gathering blade and the operating mechanism therefor form no partof the present invention, except as said gathering blade serves partlyas an auxiliary feed to f ed the body fabric in stitching a facing stripand an edging thereto by my improved stitching mechanism. 7

The thread laying mechanism for forming loops which join the threadscarried by the needles 14 15 includes a thread guiding member Thisthread guiding member 52. as shown in Fig.9, consists of supportingshank which is fixed to support 54. The support 54 is in the form of asleeve adapted to engage the free end of a shaft 55 passing through thesleeve 21 which carries the looper support. This shaft 55 carries a fork56 at its opposite end. The fork 56 is clamped to the shaft by suitablescrews 57. This fork also cotiperates with an eccentric 59 on the mainshaft 7. As the main shaft '7 rotates, the shaft 55 will be oscillatedand this will oscillate the thread guiding member back and forth in adirection substantially parallel to the line of feed. The guiding eye 60for the thread moves in a line entirely at one side of the needles.Cotiperating with this thread guiding eye 60 is a thread laying hook 61.The thread laying hook 61 has a notch 62 formed in its outer end andthis hook is carried by a supporting shank 63 which is adjustablyclamped in a sleeve 64 carried adjacent the outer end of an arm 65. Thearm 65 is adjustably secured to an oscillating support 66. Said support66 has a recess 67 in its underface in which said arm is seated and ascrew 68 passing through a slot 69 in said support 66 holds the arm inits seat and clamps the same in adjusted positions. The support 66 iscarried by a pivot stud 70, which is mounted in suitable bearings 71carried by the head of the machine. At the extrem end of the outer endof the arm 65 is a ball stud. 72. A link 73 engages said ball stud atone end and the other end of the link is attached to a ball stud 74carried by the needle lever extension 8. This link 73 has right and lefthand threads at its opposite ends, so that by turning the link theorcillating position of the arm 65 may be varied and by turning theshank which supports the hook 61 in its supporting sleeve the positionof the hook relative to the needles may be slightly varied. Also, byadjusting the length of the arm 65, the oscillating po sition of thehook relative to the needles may be varied. These adjustments providefor a setting of the hook. so that it will pass close in front of theneedles 15 and 16.

The operation of the thread laying devices will be obvious from Figs. 12to 16. inclusive. of the drawings, wherein the position. of the parts isdiagrammatically illustrated. As above noted, the edging and the bodyfabric are fed to the stitching mechanism so that the needle 16preferably passes outside of the edge of the body fabric and through theinner edge of the edging. The thread of the looper 18 not only lockseach needle loon, but joins said needle loops so that cross threads arelaid back and forth on the under face of the fabric. Above the fabricthe thread guided through the thread guide 52 is formed in loops whichare locked by the threads of the needles. In Fig. 13 of the drawings. Ihave shown the needles completing their downward movement; the threadguide 52 at the forward end of its stroke and the thread hook 61 at therear end of its"str'oke'and 'about'to'move forward to engage in thenotch 62 of said hook the thread carried by said thread guide. In Fig.14 said hook 61 is moved forward sufficiently to engage the threadcarried by the said thread guide 52 and said thread guide 52 is slightlyretracted. In Fig. 15, the thread carrying hook has reached the forwardend of its stroke, the needles have been withdrawn from the fabric andthe fabricfed for a new stitch. As the needles descend, the needle 15passes into the loop formed in the thread of the thread guide by thehook 61, While the needle 16 passes in front of the thread, so that whenthe thread guide again moves forward its thread will be looped aboutthis needle. In Fig. 16, the parts are positioned as shown in plan viewin Fig. 13; that is, the thread hook is about to engage the thread ofthe thread guide leading from the eye thereof around the needle 16 whichis,

at this time near the end of its downward stroke. In Fig. 17 of thedrawings, I have shown in detail the presser foot 10, which consists ofa main section 72 whichis fixed to the presser bar 9 and a yieldingsection 73 which is carried by the main section, so that it may yield toaccommodate itself to the varying thickness of the material passingunderneath said section of the foot. The section 7 3 is formed with astitch tongue 74. over which the cross thread carried by the threadguide is laid.

From the above, it is apparent that the thread guide is mounted beneaththe work support and is positively moved back and forth in a directionsubstantially parallel with the line of feed, while the thread layinghook moves back and forth in a direction substantially at right anglesto the line of feed and in front of the needles. The loops formed by thethreads carried by said thread guide join the needle threads of theneedles 15 and 16 above the fabric and thus unite the edging to the bodyfabric and also anchor the overedge stitches formed by the needle 16, sothat the edge of the body fabric is encircled by the stitching threads.One edge of the facing strip is secured to the body fabric by the needle15, while the other edge is simultaneously secured to the body fabric bythe needle 14.

It is obvious that minor changes in the detail of construction andarrangement of parts may be made without departing from the spirit ofthe invention, as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is:

1. The combination of a work support, an overhanging arm, feedingmechanism, and stitch forming mechanism including a plurality ofneedles, a thread guiding member movable back and forth in a linesubstantially parallel with the line of feed, means mounted beneath thework support for supporting and operating said thread guiding member, athread engaging hook having a shoulder adapted to engage the thread onthe forward movement of the hook, means for moving said hook intoengagement with the thread extending through said thread guiding member,and then across the line of feed and in front of the needles for formingand holding a loop in said thread for the needle farthest from saidthread guiding member, and means carried by the overhanging arm forsupporting the hook.

2. The combination of a work support, an overhanging arm, stitch formingmechanism including spaced needles, a feeding mechanism and a threadlaying mechanism for said needles including a thread guiding membermovableback and forth in a line sub stantially parallel with the line offeed, means mounted beneath the work support for supporting andoperating said thread guiding member, a loop forming member for engagingthe threadof said thread guide, an arm carried by the overhanging arm ofthe machme and supporting said loop forming member, means foroscillating said arm,

and means for adjusting said armlongitudr nally for varying the positionof the loop forming member relative to the needles.

3. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanismincluding spaced needles and a looper cooperating with said spacedneedles beneath the work support, a looper support on which said looperis pivotally mounted, a sleeve carrying one end of said looper support,a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member, a'shaftextending through said sleeve and supporting said thread guiding member,and means for oscillating said shaft.

1. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanismincluding spaced needles and a looper cooperating with said spacedneedles beneath the work support, a looper support on which said looperis pivotally mounted, a sleeve carrying one end of said looper support,a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member. a shaftextending through said sleeve and supporting said thread guiding member,means for oscillating said shaft, and a thread la ing hook coiiperatingwith said thread guiding member and movable ina direction substantiallyat right angles to the path of oscillation of said thread guidingmember.

5. The combination with a work support, an overhanging arm, stitchforming mechanism including a needle bar, spaced needles carried by theneedle bar, a needle lever for reciprocating said needle bar, a loopercooperating with the needles bene th the work support, and a link foroscillating said looper from said needle lever, of a thread layingmechanism including a thread guide, and a cooperating thread layinghook, means for supporting said thread laying hook, whereby the same maybe moved back and forth in front of the needles, and a,link connectingsaid supporting means with the needle lever for oscillating saidsupporting means.

6. The combination with a work support, an overhanging arm and stitch,forming mechanism, of a thread laying mechanism cooperating with saidstitch forming mechanism above the work support. said thread layingmechanism including a thread carrying member, a support pivoted to theoverhanging arm, an arm attached to said support 011 which said threadcarrying member is mounted, and means for oscillating said arm, said armbeing adjustably attached to said support whereby the same may be movedlongitudinally for adjusting the position of the thread carrying memberrelative to the stitching mechanism.

7. The combination of a work support, feeding mechanism, stitch formingmechanism including a pair of needles and a third needle widely spacedfrom said pair of needles, a looper cooperating with said pair ofneedles beneath the work support, a looper cooperating with the otherneedle, a thread laying mechanism cooperating with said pair of needlesabove the work support for joining the lines of stitching formed by saidneedles, means for guidin a bodv fabric, wherebv the edge thereof passesbetween the needles, means for guiding a facing strip underneath thebody fabric whereby the same is engaged by the inner needle of the pairand the widely spaced needle, and means for guiding an edging, wherebythe same is engaged by the outer needle of one of said pair, so thatsaid edging is secured to the body fabric and to the lining by the crossthreads joining the lines of stitching by said pair of needles.

8. The combination with a work support, an overhanging arm, stitchforming mechanism including a needle bar, spaced needles carried by theneedle bar, a needle lever for reciprocating said needle bar, a loopercooperating with the needles beneath the work support, and a link foroscillating said looper from said needle lever, of a thread layingmechanism including a thread guide, and a cooperating thread layinghook, means for supporting said thread laying hook, whereby the same maybe moved back and forth in front of the needles, and a link connectingsaid supporting means with the needle lever for oscillating saidsupporting means, said second mentioned link being connected to thelever at a point above the first mentioned link to give said supportingmeans a shorter travel than the travel of the looper.

9. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanismincluding spaced needles and a looper cooperating with said spacedneedles beneath the work support, a looper support on which said looperis pivotally mounted, a sleeve carrying one end of said looper support,a thread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member, a shaftextending through said sleeve and supporting said thread guiding member,means for oscillating said shaft, and separate means to oscillate saidsleeve to give said looper its needle avoiding movements.

10. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanismincluding spaced needles, a looper cooperating with said spaced needlesbeneath the work support, of a thread laying mechanism for forming loopsin a thread to be engaged by said needles above the work support, saidthread laying mechanism including a thread guiding member mountedbeneath the work support and projecting above and overhanging the worksupport, and means located beneath the work support for operating saidthread guiding member.

11. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanismincluding spaced needles, and a looper cooperating with said spacedneedles beneath the work support, of a thread laying mechanism includinga thread guiding member mounted beneath the work supnort and extendingabove and overhanging said looper and means located beneath the worksupport for operating the thread guiding member, and a devicecooperating with said thread guiding member for forming loops in thethread guided thereby and positioning the same for the entrance of theneedles.

12. The combination with a work support and stitch forming mechanism,including spaced needles, a looper cooperating with the spaced needlesbeneath the work support, of a thread laying mechanism including athread guiding member mounted beneath the work support and overhangingthe work support and the looper and means located beneath the worksupport for operating the thread guiding member, and a devicecooperating with said thread guiding member for forming loops in thethread guided thereby for the entrance of the needles above the worksupport.

In testimony whereof, I aiiix my signature in the presence of twowitnesses.

JOSEPH BERGER.

Witnesses:

EARL C. CLARK, LAMBERT NELBACH.

